Banarasi Sweets Tasting

Banaras has a sweet tooth and a long memory. Its halwais, the sweet makers, work with milk reduced for hours over a slow fire, and several of the city's sweets are now protected by geographical indication, among them the Banaras lal peda and the tricolour tirangi barfi. This tasting introduces the range, from everyday favourites to seasonal treats.

Your host sets out a selection agreed beforehand, which may include lal peda, the browned milk sweet; launglata, a pastry parcel sealed with a clove; rabri, layered reduced milk; tirangi barfi, said to date from the freedom movement; and, on a winter morning, malaiyo. Each sweet comes with its story: how it is made, and when and why it is eaten.

Portions are small, so you can try everything without losing your appetite for the day. The host gives ingredient information for each sweet. Most contain milk, sugar and ghee, many contain nuts, and some carry edible silver leaf, which can be left off. Lower-sugar and nut-free choices are possible if requested in advance.