Banaras After Sunset An evening food trail

When the heat goes out of the day, Banaras comes out to eat. The bazaars around Godowlia and the Chowk fill with families and students, and the chaat counters light their stoves. This trail follows the evening appetite of the city, with a host who plans the tastings in advance so you know what you are eating and why it is made this way.

The tastings are defined before you set out and usually include tamatar chaat, the city's hot, tangy tomato dish served in a leaf bowl, crisp palak patta chaat made from spinach leaves fried in batter, aloo tikki, and something cold or sweet to finish, such as kulfi, rabri or a glass of thandai, chilled milk spiced with nuts, fennel and rose. The exact list depends on the season and the stops chosen.

Your host chooses each counter for freshness and care, keeps portions small and carries water. Lighter options are easy to arrange, and allergies are planned for in advance. The evening can begin after the river aarti, so the food follows the lamps.